Tuesday, 30 April 2013

Over the Samosa Pass to Yosemite National Park

Walked up the considerable hill to look out over Mono Lake at 6am, very still, pale blue and serene. After our toast of the incredible 9 grain bread, called in at the Mono Lake Info centre, what a fascinating place. It's the remnant of an ancient sea, becoming over time 3 x the salinity of the ocean, supporting only millions of a type of little shrimp, and millions of flies. Underwater springs brought up carbonates, which bonded with calcium coming down in fresh water streams, solidifying into curious limestone towering column forms which have been exposed as the lake level slowly drops. I was immediately captivated by their resemblance to some of my work, and I guess the logic behind them is similar. We watched a great short film about it...then headed on.

Breathtaking scenery through snowy drifts and sheer cliffs clad with cedar and Birch, like something out of Bambi. Got up to 9500 ft. Coming down the other side was shady under towering redwoods. Our idyllic lunch beside a pretty stream was challenged by "someone" dropping the sandwiches onto the sand (new meaning to the term sand-wich) and some loony guy parking near our totally remote spot and revving his ute mindlessly. S

Heading back down south rolled into gentle pasture, wildflowers, grazing horses then became steep dry and rocky again as we headed toward Yosemite. A very winding and dramatic drive over 8 hours.

The entry into the park takes you by surprise. Unlike the bold red cliffs of the canyons here the rocky forms are a subtle grey, and gently rounded and weathered. We were struck with a weird nostalgia for NZ, the clear streams are just like ours, but these are set below tall redwoods and beautiful light masses of dogwood blossoms. We quickly parked in our spot and set out for a walk at sunset up the river to some mirror ponds set in a valley below massive domes. The still water reflected the cedars towering straight up into the void and the dogwood blossoms floated cloud- like above the water. It was a beautiful moment.

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The last couple of days have seen some firsts for me....the longest drive in a day (545 miles), the longest straight stretch of road, the highest altitude in a car, biggest temperature range in a day and the longest time behind the wheel.
Looking forward to staying put tomorrow.
Camp spot here at Yosemite is cool, a spot under massive redwoods. Have planned out hikes for tomorrow....


















Bishop and Scenic Loop of Lakes; Lee Vining Mono Vista RV Park

Woke today in Paradise....Eastern Sierra Nevada version but a fair enough facsimile. Had our morning brew up looking out across a crystal clear mountain stream towards a stunning backdrop of snow capped mountains with a couple of gigantic shiny black flying beetles buzzing around us for company...way bigger than bumble bees and kind of intimidating. Tried swatting them but they were pretty onto that. As we were camping 'illegally' moved on after brekkie back into town and chanced upon the famous Erick Schats Bakkery ... every variety of handmade bread you could imagine. i'm beginning to see why so many Americans are chubby! moved on to McD's to use the wifi then off north to look for Mammoth lake but couldn't find it so onward to June Lakes which were stunning clear blue, as good as any in the South Island. It was opening weekend for the trout fishing season so buzzing with expectant anglers but the sizes of the fish were disappointing by our standards. Had a beer in the sun looking across the lake surrounded by bears. Someone had dropped an outboard in the drink and the fishing guides were debating who was going to take the plunge to salvage it. In the afternoon caught up on some zzz's in the warm sunshine beside a clear brook oblivious to the passing anglers. Mono lake was our destination for the night. We are staying in an RV park to charge up all the technology.... You could say we are RV Normans. Everything here costs so many 'quarters' you'd think it would be way more efficient to just make the overall tariff a bit higher. We bought a bottle of Chardy from the camp commandant vintage 2007 for $6 ... It was her only bottle but seemed to have aged ok.
The lake here is salty like the Dead Sea and has underwater hot spring vents creating some weird and wonderful towering rock-like formations. We will explore further in the morning and perhaps take a dip.
















Sunday, 28 April 2013

Zion National Park

Driving into the park down the canyon was absolutely brilliant. The road snaked down for 10 km, with the late afternoon sun glowing on the massive red rock formations towering above, fringed with bright lime green lacy newly leafed trees below. Mostly Navajo Sandstone with layers of creamy white, all sculpted out into bizarre moulded, sliced and raked layers. It's an awesome entry into the campsite. Ours was under cottonwood trees near the river. We ate dinner by our campfire of illegally foraged firewood under the stars.

The early morning shuttle ride right up the canyon was dramatic and we hiked up to Angel's Landing, a massive spire of rock high up on the west rim. From the canyon floor we climbed up a neighbouring cliff face then picked our way precariously along about 800 m or so of narrow ridge. With drop offs of about 600 m it felt like taking stepping stones across a huge ravine. The landing is a plateau high up in the canyon with awesome views. With sheer drops on every side it was truly exhilarating. The lower tracks are lined with cottonwoods In new leaf making clouds of light lime green in total contrast to the red desert sand and cliffs. The tiny striped chipmunks are really cute although they gnawed little holes in my pack trying to get at our food.

We walked up a river trail then collapsed in the RV for a nap then hiked up to the Emerald Pools, set among grottos and huge rocks on the side of the canyon. Not emerald as you'd imagine... shallow sand pools stained a dark green tinge by algae. The coolest thing was the tiny frogs living up there, about 2 inches long, that emit resoundingly loud croaks exactly like a bleating sheep. Its a bit startling when one croaks right beside you.

















Heading Northwest toward Yosemite National Park

Driving though the Great Basin keeping toes and fingers crossed that we'll make it down this endless straight road to the next Gas station. The last four hours have slid past in a beautiful subtle series of desert landscapes, each morphing seamlessly into the next. This morning we drove through snow among cedars and birches in Cedar Breaks State Park. Cedar City is very pretty with white churches and almond trees in blossom. The Mormons make wonderful baking! We bought the most heavenly homemade bread and Murray had to buy a tub of of ice cream because it was called Bear Attack, very delicious. It's luxury glamping alright.

12 hours on the road, but luckily we found Paradise, a tiny Hamlet off the main road and camped out on the outskirts under a mountain. Beautiful full moon, surrounded by some blossoming trees.

Was a big day of driving across Nevada back into California. Tense times when gas needle on red and road ahead going to a vanishing point up the mountains.





















Wednesday, 24 April 2013

Grand Canyon

Arrived Grand Canyon last night in time to catch sun going down from the rim. Way more impressive than can adequately describe. Like turning a rugged mountain range upside down and finding it hollow inside but painted in patina of reds and creams and blues. Camp ground well treed and quiet but we didn't sleep that we'll for some reason.
Up early today to trek down into the canyon down the Bright Angel trail. More green than expected . Pretty steep haul back up but no pain no gain. Not too many other people here....I walked out to the Plateau Point and saw no one else....felt like I had the whole canyon to myself. Humbling experience.













Tuesday, 23 April 2013

Lake Mead

We have survived Las Vegas! Fun town for a couple of days but pricey and with an underbelly of some pretty sad looking types gambling their lives away. Elton John concert at Caesars Colesseum was well worthwhile...he is still on top of his game with a voice holding out well and fantastic piano playing. Also took in a Cirque d' Soliel performance (Zankarna) and did the 'Strip' from end to end checking out all the hotels. Some great architecture/design though they tend to be like clones of one another as far as the shops, bars and restaurants go each with massive tacky gaming areas. Loved the fountains at Bellagio and Caesars Palace was cool...my personal favourite.
Picked up our RV yesterday and successfully navigated here to Lake Mead Campground. It looks like Lake Taupo surrounded by desert. Our next door neighbours have passed on a few tricks of RVing as they do it every winter so feeling confident we can tackle anything now.
Our drive down the Big Sur coastline was a blast...glorious day with top down all the way. After two  relaxing days  in Cambria we sped to LA and holed up at the Georgian Hotel and pretended to be celebs swanning about on the terrace watching the sun go down with our cocktails and doing a spot of people watching. cool old hotel from the 1930's and was apparently Clarke Gable's favourite. Spent quite a while looking for a restaurant and never finding it but it did give us a big appetite when we finally gave up and settled for the nearest Italian. Next morning set off from the Route. 66 marker heading East to Las Vegas. Freeway was busy but flowing freely luckily. Our drive from there was easy peasy ...6 lane highway across a landscape resembling the surface of the moon....seemed surreal. more hilly than I imagined and for the most part treeless except for patchy scrub and some
Joshua trees.